Lower Whitsundays

Leaving Mackay means we're in the lower Whitsundays and there's not many boats around (except for dozens of bulk carriers waiting to load coal at Hay Point - we sailed straight through em)  so when we got to St Bees and Keswick Islands we were the only ones looking for a spot. There's a small resort on Keswick with an airstrip and a general store and nothing else except enormous holiday "shacks" on top of the hills looking north to Brampton, Lindeman and perhaps, Whitsunday.
Overnighted there in a fairly open but secure anchorage in Egremont Pass. I'm probably telling you what you already know but the ground makes for great holding under anchor and, touch wood, we've had no problems dragging anchor (more on that later). We've been hoping that the water clears up but "Debbie" has stirred things up so badly that even where we are now at "Hammo" it's still dirty. Hopefully it will get better as we head out to the outer reef.

Splitting the Pack at Hay Point

From St Bees we sailed to Brampton and we anchored off the Resort with one other boat except for a bloody prawn trawler who pulled up right between us in the middle of the night and left his Genset running all bloody night!

Brampton copped it from Debbie and was closed and fenced off (it might have been that way even before the cyclone). We took the dinghy and went ashore to take a look and we met Davie and his wife. They are the caretakers and we got Davie's life story. I think he was going stir crazy. Anyway, he resort's knackered and the owners (United Energy) are debating what to do. We took a walk along the airstrip and up a small hill to try and get phone signal but no go so we chased butterflies - aw shucks.

Chasing Butterflies on Brampton

Couple of nights in the anchorage on Brampton and we upped anchor to head for Thomas Island via Goldsmith, Ladysmith, Tinsmith, Coppersmith, Blacksmith, Silversmith and Anvil - we were in the Smith Group. Beautiful sail through this area and because its a fair way from Hamilton Island there's very little traffic.  Overnighted at Thomas before taking off on the slack tide to Lindeman and Shaw islands. Good opportunity to test the prop repitch so I prised Supa Glue from the wheel and opened up the diesel. WOT pulled 3300 revs (down from our previous 3600) and she was doing 8.6 kts. Much more satisfactory but still not as good as Ingenue! More pitching to be done.

We circled Shaw Island and anchored in Neck Bay, Kennedy Sound between Shaw and Lindeman in the East. Lindeman is another closed Resort but looked in pretty good shape, Again, a nice sail but the water is very dirty. So, from there north to the top end of Lindeman via Pentesost Island (apparently the only one Cook Named in the whole Cumberland/Whitsundays group - little piece of trivia for youse all). Anchored at the northern end of Lindeman and were joined by a bunch of hoons in a charter cat. They had a great time and passed out pretty early in the night. Remember what I said about good holding ground? Well. the wind freshened and I got up about 1.00am  and saw their lights disappearing in a northerly direction just missing Pentecost to the east. Nothing we could do so went back to bed. Next day when we got into "Hammo" the cat was tied up with the divers below. They'd run aground at some speed and had one keel hanging off - major damage apparently and deep shit for the crew. Our bit of excitement for the day.

 Hard work this skippering

Anyway, now we're in Hammo preparing to head off and explore the area - South on the flood, North on the ebb!

Nothing's broken for a couple of weeks so I'm eagerly anticipating what gonna go wrong this week!

That's all for now so stand by for the next gripping encounter.

 In my element

 With the beautiful people at"Hammo"

Our Outboard's a Seagull.

That might be Australia

Buckets of Serenity

We pulled out of Gladstone April 12th and passed through the North Channel rather than via the Narrows for reasons explained earlier. On the charts it looked more challenging than it actually was and apart from being (politely) challenged by a ferry, the passage was uneventful. We even had a naval escort part of the way, 

   

                                                                                                        With our Anchor ears on so we                                                                                                               can yell quietly. (thanks Mavis)

From there we headed direct to Great Keppel and enjoyed good sailing conditions. I "complained" about the northerlies when we on our way to Bundaberg late last year; well, the South Easterlies have well and truly kicked in and we have had 15 - 20 kts up the ginger for the last month. Great for sailing but sometimes a little relief would be nice - becoming a sailor, never bloody satisfied!

Gladstone Marina

Great Keppel is pretty rugged but a nice enough anchorage, if a little swelly, We took the dinghy (Penelope) ashore and went for walk along the beach - you know, sand between the toes and all that stuff. Ya gotta do it.

Forgot to mention - we crossed the tropic of Capricorn and had a drink to celebrate.

From GK (that's we sailors call it) we headed for Port Clinton. Easy entrance and talk about serenity, this is where it all started , buckets of it. It's a big area and there were just two other boats both anchored miles away from us. We anchored just under Mt Flinders opposite a beautiful little beach. Shy turtles poked there heads up every now and then and fish moved all around us including a few stingarees, which jumped out of the water - being chased by something, they don't do that for fun! We spent two nights secure at anchor and it was fantastic. Unfortunately it's part of theShoalwater Military area and from time to time they bomb the shit out of the palce.

Mount Flinders and beach Port Clinton

The plan was to go from Port Clinton to Pearl Bay, apparently the prettiest anchorage on the coast but the swell was developing and the anchorage there was untenable so we cruised through the bay and entered Island Head Creek. Spent the night at anchor in another good anchorage before leaving next morning for the Percy Islands.

Another rollicking sail up to Middle Percy (getting a bit sick of "rollicking") and dropped the pick off the A Frame amongst 4 other boats (one an ex Sandringham boat - "Lumiere").I can understand why "real" yachties rave about Middle Percy, it does look like something out of the Swiss Family Robinson. Beautiful beach, fringed with coconut palms (non native, but look good) and the A Frame building that is full of "memorabilia" from past visitors. It's actually at risk of becoming a bit of a junk heap but interesting nevertheless. We got adventurous and hiked up the hill to the old homestead. A hell of a climb but well worth it just to see the "homestead" and the "interesting" characters who live there. Came back down via a shorter track and the lagoon where one of the local characters has his boat in dry dock.

Dry Dock Percy Islands

Weather was beginning to build so we decided to head for Mackay for reprovisioning and relief for a couple of days.

15 - 20 kts up the ginger

Not sure if the video works

A little front approacheth

I CAN steer (note the style)

As I write this we are in Mackay, fully provisioned and preparing to head off again tomorrow am. From here to Scawfell Island - Brampton and then to Lindeman and into the Whitsundays proper for two or three weeks. So our hero, Odysseus, will once more plow the watery plain and we will see what adventure await.

Leaving Rum City

Finally got out of Bundaberg on a weather window Thursday 6th after 3 frustrating weeks of very brisk south easterlies. Having said that, we were able to take the boat out of the water and have it's bum scrubbed, antifouled and prop speeded, not to mention a prop repitch. Alternator issues appear largely resolved although we still await delivery of the high output replacement. Hoping that catches up with us in Mackay later this month. In line with our ambition to visit as many wineries as possible we hired a car and drove to Childers (hippie central) where  a winery called Hill of Promise showed us a passable Shiraz. I don't believe QLD is well known for wineries - with good reason. The only other"winery" tried to trick us into tasting their "Prize Winning" fruit wines.We backed out slowly.

Had a nice sail out of the Burnett tp Pancake Creek with the wind up our ginger. We "poled out" the headsail (Col) and tooled along at 7-8 kts. Picked up a little tuna along the way (too small to photograph) and rounded Bustard head mid arvo. Entered Pancake Creek "by the leads" (Col) and anchored uneventfully. It was still blowing hard but holding was good so no dragging problems.

Launched the dinghy next day and headed across to the beach area from where we hiked up the hill to the Bustard Head lighthouse via Aircraft Beach lookout.  Nice spot Pancake Creek and a few of the locals turned up in their tinnies for a spot of camping and fishing. It's just north of Agnes Water and the Town of 1770 so a popular spot for the locals.

Wind showed signs of abating so we "weighed anchor" (Col) at 0730 on the 9th and made for Gladstone Marina. About 30 miles so we motored all the way and performed a battery monitoring exercise. All worked as it should so should

be OK from here on (touch wood). So now we're in Gladstone where we reprovisioned and fueled up ready to depart for the first of our islands - Great Keppel tomorrow. We chickened out on navigating the narrows between Curtis Island and the mainland because of the floods in the Fitzroy which has likely filled the Narrows and Keppel Bay with all manner of rubbish. We'll tackle that on the way home.

So, from here to Great Keppel, then onto Port Clinton, Pearl Bay, Island Head Creek and the Percys. From there we will head to the Whitsundays (possibly via Mackay) so if any of you ever wanted to sail that area give us a hoy and we'll see what can be arranged.

Keeping an eye on TC Cook all the while!

Sally continues to attract the midgies - almost like she's an anode for me. I get the odd bite but she takes  to excess! Stocking up on the DEET.

We're blogging again....

Greetings from a land where nothing ever dries out, the barometer never moves and the midgies welcome Sally as a moving feast. Shit it's humid, even the locals are going troppo.

Arrived here Mar 17 to find that the electrons had escaped from the batteries and the 240 Volt RCD had crapped out meaning the battery charger wasn't working. Added to that the high capacity alternator that had been delivered for us wasn't what I ordered and our electricity woes compounded. Found a sparky to replace the RCD and we crossed our fingers that the batteries were recoverable. they eventually came up OK and seemed to be staying there so we went ahead with the planned haul out. We checked into a flea bag motel and left the power off the boat to test the batteries holding power. 24 hours later and they were still up so we saved ourselves some dollars there.

Rain started as cyclone Debbie approached and that held up the respray of the anti foul. However, job was eventually done and I repitched to prop prior to prop speeding the shaft and propeller, Can't wait to see how fast she goes now!

Back into the water first thing Monday and I have to say that the yard here is fantastic. Not cheap but the boys are great, do a good job and are very helpful. By now Debbie is "doing Dallas" and we are marina bound. Back staying on the boat and doing lots of odd jobs, Looks like next week before we can creep up the coast. Next stop, Round Hill creek and than Pan cake creek prior to Gladstone and INSIDE Curtis island. Should be fun watching the fence disappear under water at the cattle crossing before we sail across the narrows and up into Keppel Bay. Bit embarrassing if we get it wrong and get snagged on a fence! Then up to  Port Clinton. Pearl Bay and the Percy's and by then, perhaps, all remnants of the cyclone will be gone. By the time we get to the Whitsundays we might be the only tourists around (and I just finished re reading "On The Beach")! Won't be a lot of fun until the bloody rain stops- perhaps it never does up here. Still, better here than Airlie Beach, looks like boat soup in the marinas there.

Bundaberg Port marina is a nice enough spot and has all the mechanical services you need. There's a restaurant (run by captain Grumpy), good laundry and bathroom facilities and the aforementioned hardstand. It would be pretty exposed if the weather got bad and it's about 15 kms from Bundy so a bit isolated. Good bus services (including marina courtesy bus) into town. Burnett heads is close by and the local IGA has a courtesy bus so that's handy.

We hired a car from the marina ($49/day) to relieve the cabin fever while we're confined to quarters. Went for a run into Gin Gin (nothing to see here) and into Bagara which looks like the retirement village for the Bundaberg folk. Not a bad joint but I wouldn't want to live there. Saw the Mon Repos turtle hatchery, which is about exciting as it get hereabouts - it's a bit like Toledo Ohio, I spent a week there one day.

For now it's just a matter of waiting for the weather to sort itself out before we build up steam and cast off. I'll sort out how to get photos off the camera and the phone and onto this blog soon.

That's about it from Bundbloodyberg and we'll talk to y'all from somewhere further north.

Still more Northerlies

NThe KLeft Manly for Wide Bay at 1030 Friday 28th via the East Channel close under Moreton Island and settled in for a beat that lasted until about 0300 Saturday and turned in for Wide Bay bar at about 0600. Crossed the bar at high tide and almost got run over by the catamaran stampede coming out of the Great Sandy Straits - and heading south with the whales!

Turned left inside the Great Sandy Strait and headed up Tin Can inlet to Snapper Creek where we used the keel as a depth gauge. Almost fast on quick shoaling sand off Norman Point but more power got us floating again and we dropped anchor. Went ashore in Penelope (who is suffering from a deflating symptom) and had a drink in the Tin Can Bay clubhouse. Nice spot but not much to do.

During the night a commotion at the back of the boat got me out of bed and a couple of drunks in a half cab cruiser had their anchor directly underneath us. They must have anchored a bit close and a tide turn swung us over their anchor. They were highly embarrassed but we got em free, no damage done and then they ran aground too. Used my more power technique and plowed their way into the night.

We left Snapper Creek and headed for Garry's Anchorage where we tested the bottom again trying to get to the anchorage so we anchored while the tide caught up with us and we could get in. Dropped the anchor and promptly dragged so had to reset and stand watch against the northerly at 15 plus knots. Held OK and spent a couple of nights there. Sally got attacked by sand flies and has spent a miserable few days trying not to scratch about three dozen welts - the joys of the tropics. Good fun calculating tides and navigating the Strait when we decided to head further up. Plan was to spend a night or two at North White Cliffs but guess what? Bloody Northerlies made that plan untenable so we headed for Hervey Bay marina awaiting our slot in Bundaberg. This place is full of game fishing boats as the classic is on this weekend so had a good chat and gave lots of gratuitous advice, l'm sure they all appreciated it. We'll stay here till Saturday and then head for the boat's summer home in Bundaberg.

We've travelled 1500 miles in 8 weeks (Cliff Young would be faster) and we're now at the southern end of the reef. We've suffered no major indignities, we still talk to each other, I've learnt heaps and it's been great fun so far but really, the adventure starts now. We'll fly home for the summer and plan our way north for when we recommence in March 17. Original plan was to get into Torres Strait and that still stands. That's a long way up and a long way between drinks so well relook at that from Port Douglas when we get there. What I'm REALLY looking forward to is sailing south next spring with the Northerlies up our ginger!

Bloody Northerlies

After the Clarence we headed north again towards the Gold Coast. This despite the persistence of the Northerlies. Every transient in the marina was heading south with the whales so we are definitely the odd ones out. But we had a good time in the region including an unlikely find - a good Mexican restaurant. Also visited the Yamba yacht club and had a few beers with the locals.

Sailed along merrily for about 5 hours and then the wind began to die and become variable. The helms person suffered the indignity of an involuntary 360 circuit in the middle of the night - no names, no pack drill. Motored (again) up to the Gold Coast seaway with a little bit of sailing possible in the last couple of hours. No problem crossing the seaway bar and we headed to Wave Break Island to plan our next move. That spot proved vulnerable to afore mentioned Northerlies so we upped anchor and headed down to Bums Bay which proved much more comfortable despite a crowd with the same idea.

Our tide calcs suggested an early departure to ensure we hit the shoal areas as close to high as possible. The seaway is a pretty run although in the three years since I was last there it has become more developed and busy. Marinas everywhere and boats anchored all over the place. Our calcs proved pretty accurate and although we graduated from those "about to hit the bottom" to "those who have" at Steiglitz we did no damage and power on fixed the problem. Lots of dredging going on all up the seaway so a good chance to test our day shapes knowledge. The dredge operators are obviously tired of dickheads so they have a big sign on each end of the dredge "PASS THIS SIDE". Sort of makes the shapes redundant really. 

We took an unusual route East of Macleay island into Moreton Bay which meant a long run into Manly but we made it largely on schedule around midday after a 12 hour run. They put us in a berth 2 doors down from where the boat was berthed when we bought it - full circle. 

Northerlies had almost beaten us and we discussed leaving he boat here for the summer but we then decided we'd press on and the next stop is planned for the southern end of Fraser Island. About a 22 hour run for us (against the Northerlies!) and we'll likely drop the anchor in Pelican Bay before traveling  through the Great Sandy straits - more tide calcs. After we get through the great sandies we'll terminate the 2016 jaunt in  Bundaberg where the boat stay till about March. We have to stop because we're running out of Hunter Valley reds, thirsty business this sailing 

Got the tides wrong!

Up a Clarence River

Another motor sail from port Macquarie to Yamba saw us tie up in the marina at about 9.00am. More whale sittings on the way up but we haven't seen a shark yet, they must be busy chasing surfers. Caught a couple of little bonito and a striped tuna on Johnnys pretty little pink skirt. I'll get a man sized one out for the next leg and try to catch a real fish.

Wind mostly 5 and below so the Yanmar is getting a good workout and delivering well. Just over 2 liters per hour but that will change when I get to be in charge. Rep itch the prop and make it work a bit!

Yamba entrance is a bit confusing for novices and we were glad to cross the bar and enter the river in daylight. Lots of training walls with lights and marks all over the place. Finally found the "hole in the wall" and managed to negotiate the shoals around Dart Island and into the marina. As usual the marina staff were very friendly and helpful and the facilities are OK.

Spent a few days sailing up the Clarence although we were an hour late to the Harwood Bridge which meant waiting 23 hours waiting for the next lift! Saw the sugar mill in full operation. Finally passed under the bridge and made our way to Maclean where we tied up for the night on one of the public pontoons that line the river. Pretty place with a full township and all the facilities you'd need. 

Next day we headed further up River past Lawrence where we had to negotiate shoals on the bend which we did without too much concern and from there we motored on up to Ulmarra. Lovely little spot spoilt only by an angry old bastard who'd been living on a boat for too long. Got upset because I moved his dinghy so we could tie up. Waved a piece of pipe around like William Wallace but I felt quite superior because I was up on the deck looking down at him and he was all piss and wind anyway.

This is an amazing River. 500 yards wide at Harwood and 40 feet deep and still probably 200 yards across at Ulmarra though a little shallower. Hard to believe the Filinders didn't find especially as tha was his express mission and he stood on the hill at the entrance. Apparently, at the time it didn't run to the sea continuously and he must have been there in a dry season. Now the training walls mean that the river flows much more directly and swiftly to the sea. Now sips up to 5000 tonnes navigate the entrance and head up River. In fact we saw one at anchor so now we know where Tom is (see below) but there was no sign of Leanne. 

Back to Harwood for the next bridge lift and because we were a couple of hours early we had to have a beer at the Harwood Hilton - top spot. From there back to Yamba to wait for the Strong winds to die off and allow us to make the leg to the Gold Coast. The way it looks we won't make Ballina but rather head straight to the seaway. After that it will be up the inside to Manly and from there to Mooloolabah where we'll leave the boat for the wet season.

All is going well and we'll be home mid November for the summer.